Jewelry Information
All The Glitter
 The word gold, used by itself, means all gold or 24 karat (24K) gold. Because
24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness
and durability. If a piece of jewelry is not 24 karat gold, the karat quality
should accompany any claim that the item is gold.
The karat quality marking tells you what proportion of gold is mixed with
the other metals. Fourteen-karat (14K) jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed
in throughout with 10 parts of base metal. The higher the karat rating, the
higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry.
Most jewelry is marked with its karat quality, although marking is not required
by law. Near the karat quality mark, you should see the name or the U.S. registered
trademark of the company that will stand behind the mark. The trademark may
be in the form of a name, symbol or initials. If you don't see a trademark
accompanying a quality mark on a piece of jewelry, look for another piece.
Platinum is a precious metal that costs more than gold. It usually is mixed
with other similar metals, known as the platinum group metals: iridium, palladium,
ruthenium, rhodium and osmium.
Different markings are used on platinum jewelry as compared with gold jewelry,
based on the amount of pure platinum in the piece. The quality markings for
platinum are based on parts per thousand. For example, the marking 900 Platinum
means that 900 parts out of 1000 are pure platinum, or in other words, the
item is 90% platinum and 10% other metals. The abbreviations for platinum -
Plat. or Pt. - also can be used in marking jewelry.
The words silver or sterling silver describe a product that contains 92.5%
silver. Silver products sometimes may be marked 925 which means that 925 parts
per thousand are pure silver. Some jewelry may be described as silverplate:
a layer of silver is bonded to a base metal. The mark coin silver is used for
compounds that contain 90% silver. According to the law, quality-marked silver
also must bear the name or a U.S. registered trademark of the company or person
that will stand behind the mark..
Gemstones
 Natural gemstones are found in nature. Laboratory-created stones, as the name
implies, are made in a laboratory. These stones, which also are referred to
as laboratory-grown, manufacturer-created, or synthetic, have essentially the
same chemical, physical and visual properties as natural gemstones. Laboratory-
created stones do not have the rarity of naturally colored stones and they
are less expensive than naturally mined stones. By contrast, imitation stones
look like natural stones in appearance only, and may be glass, plastic, or
less costly stones. Laboratory-created and imitation stones should be clearly
identified as such.
Gemstones may be measured by weight, size, or both. The basic unit for weighing
gemstones is the carat, which is equal to one-fifth (1/5th) of a gram. Carats
are divided into 100 units, called points. For example, a half-carat gemstone
would weigh .50 carats or 50 points. When gemstones are measured by dimensions,
the size is expressed in millimeters (for example, 7x5 millimeters).
Gemstone treatments or enhancements refer to the way some gems are treated
to improve their appearance or durability, or even change their color. Many
gemstones are treated in some way. The effects of some treatments may lessen
or change over time and some treated stones may require special care. Some
enhancements also affect the value of a stone, when measured against a comparable
untreated stone.
 About Pearls
Natural or real pearls are made by oysters and other mollusks. Cultured pearls
also are grown by mollusks, but with human intervention; that is, an irritant
introduced into the shells causes a pearl to grow. Imitation pearls are man-made
with glass, plastic, or organic materials.
Because natural pearls are very rare, most pearls used in jewelry are either
cultured or imitation pearls. Cultured pearls, because they are made by oysters
or mollusks, usually are more expensive than imitation pearls. A cultured pearl's
value is largely based on its size, usually stated in millimeters, and the
quality of its nacre coating, which gives it luster.
Diamond Buying
Most people know little or nothing about diamonds. That's why the American
Gem Society came into existence over 70 years ago. Thanks to Society members,
we now have precise standards for evaluating diamonds, commonly known as the
4 Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight. The American Gem Society Diamond
Grading Standards evaluate three of the four value factors — cut, color,
and clarity — on its own 1–10 scale. The scales begin at 0 (zero),
the highest grade, and go down to 10, the lowest. The three factors are expressed
separately along with the fourth factor, the carat weight of the gemstone,
for the final American Gem Society Grade.
The Science of Diamonds
While not everyone will share the same opinion as to what constitutes beauty,
most people want a diamond that expresses their individual taste and personality.
Here’s what you should consider first, however, before buying a diamond:
Cut. Of all the 4 Cs, cut has the greatest effect on a diamond's beauty. In
grading, cut evaluates the cutters skill in the fashioning of the diamond.
Diamonds have a unique ability to manipulate light efficiently. This unique
ability can be released and maximized only by cutting and polishing the diamond
to an extremely high level of accuracy. The American Gem Society Cut Grading
System considers not only the proportions of a diamond, but also the craftsmanship
of its overall symmetry and polish. It is unique in that it uses the latest
in technology to analyze the cut’s impact on the diamond’s light
performance.
Color. A truly colorless diamond is extremely rare. Most diamonds possess
varying degrees of yellow or brown and small, subtle differences in color can
make a substantial difference in value. If a diamond is well cut, the diamond's
refraction and dispersion often will disguise certain degrees of coloration.
Unless a diamond is a fancy color (or any color other than colorless to light
yellow or brown), the American Gem Society Color Grading System places it on
a 0 to 10 scale, 0 being colorless. To accurately and consistently grade color,
an American Gem Society trained grader will utilize special lighting to compare
the diamond being graded to a set of American Gem Society Master Color Comparison
Diamonds, which have met exacting standards of cut, color, clarity, and carat
weight.
Clarity. Clarity is the evaluation of a diamond's internal and external characteristics.
The fewer inclusions or blemishes, the more desirable the diamond. Inclusions
are internal, that is, inside the diamond. Crystals are merely minerals trapped
inside the diamond; feathers are breaks in the diamond. Blemishes are usually
very small and are only on the surface of diamonds. To locate these tiny characteristics,
an American Gem Society member jeweler will use a binocular microscope that
magnifies the diamond ten times. Then, evaluating the size, location, nature,
number, and color of all the inclusions and blemishes, a clarity grade from
0-10 is assigned.
Carat. The standard used to measure diamond weight is the carat. A carat equals
1/5 of a gram (or 1/142 of an ounce). Each carat is further divided into points,
each point representing 1/100th of a carat. While weight may be the least important
of the four Cs in determining value, it may be the easiest of the four Cs to
gauge accurately and is the most objective. As diamonds increase in size, their
cost tends to increase geometrically. Thus, a one-carat diamond may cost more
than twice as much as a one-half carat stone of equal quality. Also, as previously
stated, weight does not always enhance the value of a diamond. In fact, when
a stone is improperly cut, added weight may serve only to reduce its brilliance.
For these reasons, you should consult with an American Gem Society titleholder
or individual regarding the question of carat weight.
Traditionally, diamonds and other gems are popular holiday gifts at Christmas,
Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, and Easter and
for milestones like birthdays, wedding anniversaries or graduation. Today,
though, diamonds, pearls, or other gemstones are appropriate gifts for any
occasion.
Diamonds, pearls, and an exciting array of new and traditional gems are showing
up on everything from tennis bracelets and cufflinks to men’s watches
and other fashion accessories. It is important to remember that there are no
hard and set rules for giving a gift of jewelry to a loved one. Any time is
a good time; any reason is a good reason. You can even buy jewelry to reward
yourself! Your local American Gem Society titleholder will help you make the
best possible buying decision. Choose a jeweler you can trust, inquire about
the care of your jewelry purchase, and make sure to purchase a piece that reflects
the recipient’s personality.
Birthstones
January
Garnet
Garnet, the birthstone for January, signifies etermal friendship and trust
and is the perfect gift for a friend. Garnet, derived from the word granatum,
means seed, and is called so because of the gemstone's resemblance to a pomegranate
seed. References to the gemstone dates back to 3100 B.C., when the Egyptians
used garnets as inlays jewelry. Garnet is the name of a group of minerals that
comes in a rainbow of colors, from the deep red of the pyrope garnet to the
vibrant green of tsavorites. Today, the most important sources for garnet are
Africa, Sri Lanka, and India.
February
Amethyst
Amethyst, the gemstone believed by ancient Greeks and Romans to ward off the
intoxicating powers of Bacchus, also is said to keep the wearer clear-headed
and quick-witted. Throughout history, the gemstone has been associated with
many myths, legends, religions, and numerous cultures. English regalia were
even decorated with amethysts during the Middle Ages to symbolize royalty.
It has been associated with many myths, legends, religions, and numerous cultures.
Amethyst is purple quartz, a beautiful blend of violet and red that can found
in every corner of the earth. Historically, the finest amethyst were found
in Russia and were featured in much royal European jewelry. Today, while Brazil
is the primary source of this gemstone, fine material can be found elsewhere,
especially in Zambia.
March
Aquamarine
The two birthstones for March are aquamarine and bloodstone.
The name aquamarine is derived from the Latin word aqua, meaning water, and
marina, meaning the sea. This gemstone was believed to protect sailors, as
well as to guarantee a safe voyage. The serene color of aquamarine is said
to cool the temper, allowing the wearer to remain calm and levelheaded. Its
pale, cool color beautifully complements spring and summer wardrobes. Aquamarine
is most often light in tone and ranges from greenish blue to blue-green; the
color usually is more intense in larger stones. This gemstone is mined mainly
in Brazil, but also is found in Nigeria, Madagascar, Zambia, Pakistan, and
Mozambique.
The second birthstone for March is bloodstone, a dark-green jasper flecked
with vivid red spots of iron oxide. This ancient stone was used by the Babylonians
to make seals and amulets and was believed to have healing powers — especially
for blood disorders. It is sometimes called the martyr's stone as legend tells
that it was created when drops of Christ's blood stained some jasper at the
foot of the cross. Generally found embedded in rocks or in riverbeds as pebbles,
primary sources for this stone are India, Brazil, and Australia.
April
Diamond
As the April birthstone, diamonds are the ideal gift for a loved one. And
now you have more choices than ever. Get creative and give the ultimate gift
of beauty: a fancy-color diamond. Fancy-color diamonds are natural, rare and
truly exotic gem of the earth. Diamonds in hues of yellow, red, pink, blue,
and green range in intensity from faint to vivid and generally the more saturated
the color, the higher the value. In fact, diamonds sparkling with intense color
are rare and may be priced higher than a colorless diamond of equal size. Because
fancy-color diamonds are very desirable, color is sometimes introduced in a
laboratory. These are correctly called color-treated diamonds. When purchasing
a fancy-color diamond, the shopper should ask if any enhancements or treatments
were used to improve its color and/or clarity.
May
Emerald
As the birthstone for May, the emerald, a symbol of rebirth, is believed to
grant the owner foresight, good fortune, and youth. Emerald, derived from the
word smaragdus, meaning green in Greek, was mined in Egypt as early as 330
B.C. Today, most of the world’s emeralds are mined in Colombia, Brazil,
Afghanistan, and Zambia. The availability of high-quality emerald is limited;
consequently, treatments to improve clarity are performed regularly.
June
Pearl and Alexandrite
June counts three gems as birthstones, pearl, Alexandrite, and moonstone.
Historically, pearls have been used as an adornment for centuries. They were
one of the favorite gem materials of the Roman Empire; later in Tudor England,
the 1500s were known as the pearl age. Pearls are unique as they are the only
gems from living sea creatures and require no faceting or polishing to reveal
their natural beauty. In the early 1900s, the first successful commercial culturing
of round saltwater pearls began. Since the 1920s, cultured pearls have almost
completely replaced natural pearls in the market.
Alexandrite
A relatively modern gem, Alexandrite, was first discovered in Russia in 1831
during the reign of its namesake, Czar Alexander II, and is an extremely rare
chrysoberyl with chameleon-like qualities. Its color is a lovely green in both
daylight and fluorescent light; it changes color to a purplish red in incandescent
light. Due to its rarity, some jewelers stock synthetic versions of this enchanting
gemstone. (Synthetic gemstones are man-made alternatives to the natural material,
possessing the same physical, optical, and chemical properties as the natural
gemstone.)
Moonstone
The third birthstone for June is the Moonstone. It was given its name by the
Roman natural historian Pliny, who wrote that moonstone's appearance altered
with the phases of the moon — a belief that held until well after the
sixteenth century. A phenomenal gemstone, moonstones show a floating play of
light (called adularescence) and sometimes show either a multirayed star or
a cat's eye. Considered a sacred stone in India, moonstones often are displayed
on a background of yellow (a sacred color) and are believed to encapsulate
within the stone a spirit whose purpose is to bring good fortune. Part of the
family of minerals called feldspar, moonstone occurs in many igneous and metamorphic
rocks and comes in a variety of colors such as green, blue, peach, and champagne.
The most prized moonstones are from Sri Lanka; India, Australia, the United
States, Mayanmar, and Madagascar are also sources.
July
Ruby
There’s no better way to demonstrate your love than by giving a ruby
in celebration of a July birthday. Rubies arouse the senses, stir the imagination,
and are said to guarantee health, wisdom, wealth and success in love. Ruby
is a variety of the gems species corundum. It is harder than any natural gemstone
except diamond, which means a ruby is durable enough for everyday wear. Fine-quality
ruby is extremely rare, and the color of the gem is most important to its value.
The most prized color is a medium or medium dark vivid red or slightly purplish
red. If the gem is too light or has too much purple or orange, it will be called
a fancy-color sapphire.
August
Peridot
Two birthstones are available for August birthdays: Peridot and Sardonyx.
Peridot is said to host magical powers and healing properties to protect against
nightmares and to bring the wearer power, influence, and a wonderful year.
As peridot is a gemstone that forms deep inside the Earth and brought to the
surface by volcanoes, in Hawaii, peridot symbolizes the tears of Pele, the
goddess of fire and volcanoes. Today, most of the peridot supply comes from
Arizona; other sources are China, Myanmar, and Pakistan. This gemstone comes
in several color variations ranging from yellowish green to brown, but most
consumers are attracted to the bright lime greens and olive greens. Peridot,
in smaller sizes, often is used in beaded necklaces and bracelets.
Sardonyx
Sardonyx is a form of onyx and is recognized by its layers of reddish brown
and white banding. It was popular with the ancient Greeks and Romans who carried
into battle talismans of sardonyx engraved with images of heroes such as Mars
or Hercules, believing that this would bring courage and victory. Because of
its attractive banding, sardonyx has long been used to fashion cameos (carved
raised figures) and intaglios (the reverse of cameos). This gemstone is found
throughout the world. The most attractive specimens are found in India, but
material also is mined in Czechoslovakia, Brazil, Uruguay, Germany, and in
the United States.
September
Sapphire
Sapphire, the September birthstone, has been popular since the Middle Ages
and, according to folklore, will protect your loved ones from envy and harm.
Medieval clergy wore sapphires to symbolize heaven, while commoners thought
the gem attracted heavenly blessings. Blue sapphires range from very light
to very dark greenish or violetish blue, as well as various shades of pure
blue. The most prized colors are a medium to medium dark blue or slightly violetish
blue. Sapphire is a variety of the gem species corundum and occurs in all colors
of the rainbow. Pink, purple, green, orange, or yellow corundum are known by
their color (pink sapphire, green sapphire). Ruby is the red variety of corundum.
October
Tormaline and Opal
October is another month with two birthstone choices – Tourmaline and
Opal.
Tourmaline has become a favorite gemstone among jewelry designer, and gem
collectors the world over. Since it is available in a wide variety of colors,
it is ideally suited to almost anyone's taste. Tourmaline also is known for
displaying several colors in the same gemstone. These bi-color or tri-color
gems are formed in many combinations; gemstones with clear color distinctions
are highly prized. One multi-color variety is known as watermelon tourmaline,
and features green, pink, and white colors bands; to resemble its namesake,
the gemstone is cut into thin slices having a pink center, white ring, and
green edge. Tourmaline is found in many localities including Brazil, Afghanistan,
East Africa, and the USA.
The name opal derives from the Greek Opallos, meaning "to see a change
(of color)." Opals range in color from milky white to black with flashes
of yellow, orange, green, red, and blue. An opal's beauty is the product of
contrast between its color play and its background. Opal is a formation of
non-crystalline silica gel that seeped into crevices in the sedimentary strata.
Through time and nature's heating and molding processes, the gel hardened into
the form of opals. The opal is composed of particles closely packed in spherical
arrangements. When packed together in a regular pattern, a three-dimensional
array of spaces are created that give opal its radiance.
November
Topaz and Citrine
Two gems are appropriate for November birthdays - Topaz and Citrine.
Topaz is a gemstone available in a rich rainbow of colors. Prized for several
thousand years in antiquity, all yellow gems in antiquity were called topaz.
Often confused with citrine quartz (yellow) and smoky quartz (brown), quartz
and topaz are separate and unrelated mineral species. The most prized color
of topaz is called Imperial topaz after the Russian Czars of the 1800s and
features a magnificent orange body color with pinkish undertones. Topaz also
comes in yellow, pink, purple, orange, and the many popular blue tones.
Citrine, the other birthstone for November is known as the "healing quartz".
This golden gemstone is said to support vitality and health while encouraging
and guiding hope, energy and warmth within the wearer. Citrine can be found
in a variety of shades ranging from pastel yellow to dark brownish orange.
It is one of the most affordable of gemstones and plentiful in nature. Citrine
is found most frequently in Brazil, Bolivia, and Spain.
December
Tanzanite, Zircon, and Turquoise
The three birthstones associated with December are Tanzanite, Zircon, and
Turquoise.
Discovered in the late 1960s in Tanzania, and found exclusively in this tiny
area of the world, tanzanite exhibits a rich violet-blue color for which the
gemstone is treasured; often it is heat-treated to achieve this color. Colors
range from blue to purple, and tanzanites that are medium dark in tone, vivid
in saturation, and slightly violet blue command premium prices. As tanzanite
can be less expensive than sapphire, it often was purchased as an alternative.
However, it has increased in popularity and now is valued more for its own
beauty and brilliance than as a sapphire substitute.
Derived from the Arabic words zar and gun, meaning gold and color, zircon
is found in a wide range of colors such as: blue, yellow, orange, brown, green,
colorless, and red (the most prized color). For many years colorless zircon
was used to imitate diamonds. Folk wisdom grants zircon the power to relieve
pain, whet the appetite, protect travelers from disease and injury, to ensure
a warm welcome, and to prevent nightmares guaranteeing a deep, tranquil sleep.
Major sources of zircon are the Chanthaburi area of Thailand, the Palin area
of Cambodia, and the southern part of Vietnam.
The name turquoise, from the French expression Pierre tourques or Turkish
stone, originated in the thirteenth century and describes one of the oldest
known gemstones. Turquoise varies in color from greenish blue, through robin's
egg-blue, to sky blue shades and its transparency ranges from translucent to
opaque. Turquoise is plentiful and is available in a wide range of sizes. It
is most often used for beads, cabochons, carvings, and inlays. Although its
popularity fluctuates in fashion, it is a perennial favorite in the American
Southwest.
Anniversary Stones
What is more joyous and heartfelt than giving your loved one a special gift
each year to commemorate a wedding anniversary? Traditionally, every anniversary
is celebrated by giving a gift made from a different material. It isn't clear
when this traditional list came into existence. It probably originated in the
Middle Ages when very few people could afford rare stones and jewelry and it
evolved over time. But these days, giving paper, cotton or glass somehow don’t
seem to capture the significance of the happiest day of your life.
There is a new tradition gaining popularity, however. And it will please
your loved one a whole lot more than paper or glass. It’s the growing
trend of giving a lasting gift of beautiful gemstone jewelry for your anniversary.
Here is a list of gemstones that are quickly becoming the accepted norms to
commemorate each anniversary year.
1st Anniversary – Mother of Pearl. Alternate: Peridot
2nd Anniversary - Garnet
3rd Anniversary - Pearls. Alternate: Jade
4th Anniversary - Blue Topaz. Alternate: Blue Zircon
5th Anniversary - Sapphire. Alternate: Pink Tourmaline
6th Anniversary - Amethyst. Alternate: Turquoise
7th Anniversary - Onyx. Alternates: Yellow Sapphire, Golden Beryl
8th Anniversary - Tourmaline. Alternate: Tanzanite
9th Anniversary - Lapis Lazuli. Alternates: Amethyst, Green Spinel
10th Anniversary – Diamond Jewelry. Alternate:Blue Sapphire
11th Anniversary - Turquoise. Alternates: Citrine, Yellow Zircon
12th Anniversary - Jade. Alternate: Opal
13th Anniversary - Citrine. Alternates: Moonstone, Hawk's Eye
14th Anniversary - Opal. Alternates: Agate, Bloodstone
15th Anniversary - Ruby. Alternates: Rhodolite Garnet, Alexandrite
16th Anniversary - Peridot. Alternate: Red Spinel
17th Anniversary - Watches. Alternate: Carnelian
18th Anniversary - Cat's Eye or Chrysoberyl
. Alternate:Aquamarine
19th Anniversary - Aquamarine. Alternate:Almandine Garnet
20th Anniversary - Emerald.
Alternate: Yellow or Golden Diamond
21st Anniversary - Iolite.
22nd Anniversary - Spinel.
23rd Anniversary - Imperial Topaz.
24th Anniversary - Tanzanite.
25th Anniversary – Silver Jubilee. Alternates: Tsavorite , Green Garnet
30th Anniversary - Pearl Jubilee.
35th Anniversary - Emerald.
40th Anniversary - Ruby.
45th Anniversary - Sapphire.
Alternate: Cat's Eye
50th Anniversary - Golden Jubilee. Alternate: Imperial or Golden Topaz
55th Anniversary - Alexandrite.
60th Anniversary - Diamond Jubilee. Alternate: Star Ruby
If you are a purist and don’t want to break with tradition, however,
there are other creative ways to satisfy your traditional inclinations with
modern flair. For instance, you can always tuck a ring inside a leather wallet,
tie a cluster of roses together with a bracelet, or hide a necklace inside
the pocket of a silk robe. You’ll be following time-honored tradition
while delivering an anniversary gift that engenders deep feelings for years
to come.
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